How much? Jay at 34 Mayfair, London Photograph: Levon Biss / The Observer.

I have a weakness for challenging place names. Mr. Rayner delivers handsomely in his article.

I have reviewed [restaurants] from Marazion and Porthleven at the tip of Cornwall to Stornoway and Drumbeg in Scotland’s furthest reaches; from Llandudno in the west of Wales to Cromer in the east of England… A few months after I started [as a food critic], I complained that it seemed impossible to eat out for less than £70 for two. Now, too many flash metropolitan places seem to glide effortlessly past £140. Happily, it has led to a flight away from the centres. Many of the most interesting, affordable restaurants in the UK are now to be found in once unlikely places: in shipping containers in Bristol or covered markets in Doncaster or Brixton.

(Jay Rayner, “… My 20 years as a restaurant critic,” The Guardian, 3-17-19)

(c) 2019 JMN.